Literary Feast  ·  Read the passage. Cook the meal.
A dish that matters

Recollections: With Photogravure Portrait of the Author and a number o

by David Christie Murray

RECOLLECTIONS: WITH PHOTOGDAVID CHRISTIE MURRAY
Our binding, not the publisher's

“At first I thought the Constantinople fare the most delightful I had ever encountered anywhere. At the first dinner at which I sat down we were served amongst other things with red mullet, stuffed tomatoes and quail--all excellent of their sort and admirably prepared. Red mullet, _tomates farcies_ and quail appeared again for breakfast and were not to be despised, but red mullet, tomates farcies and quail for luncheon, began to be a trifle tiresome, and when all three appeared again at dinner and at the next day's breakfast and luncheon, there were some of us who began to hunger for a change. We made a little party and we went across to the Valori restaurant. Here we encountered a polyglot major-domo, who spoke all languages of Europe indifferently ill. “What can we have for dinner?” asked our spokesman. “Ret moiled, domades varcies, et qvail!” He smiled ineffably and evidently thought that he was offering us food for the gods. We ate tough beefsteak, fried in oil, and cursed the delicacies of the country. The diners at Valori's made up the first really polyglot assembly I had ever seen. There were Bulgarian notables--caring apparently to speak their own language only--Spanish Jews from Eski Zaghra, Greeks, Turks, Germans, Italians, Armenians, Englishmen, native volunteers for the Polish legion then forming, and a Croat gentleman with bejewelled handles to his private arsenal of lethal weapons, and starched expansive white petticoats. Our major-domo was somehow equal to them all, and when the rush of service was partly over, I found an opportunity to ask him how many languages he spoke. He answered in a tone of apology and regret: “Onily twelluv, ich habe vergessen les autres!””

From the Roman kitchen

A cook of roughly the same moment, setting down the same dish.

400  ·  Apicius
OIL AND A TRIFLE OF SALT

[1] Lister, at this point, has forgotten his explanation of _laridum_, and now accepts the word in its proper sense. This rather belated correction by Lister confirms the correctness of our own earlier observations. Cf. note to {Rx} Nos. 41 and 148.

Sources: The passage is from David Christie Murray, Recollections: With Photogravure Portrait of the Author and a number o, free to read in full at Project Gutenberg. The recipe is from Apicius, Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome, also free in full. Both are in the public domain in the United States. The binding above is ours — plum cloth, pudding stamp.

← All entries